Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this a safe spot to climb, but not all circumstances can be avoided.
Please message me for the location of this boulder and I will gladly show you. It is on private property so I will not be publicly posting the location. It is within 10 minutes of Parry Sound and a 500 meter hike. The trail was not made by climbers.
If you have grade feedback/ agree with the grades let me know. Contact me Daniel Hefford on Facebook, or message Parry Sound Climbing on Facebook or the comments section at the bottom of the page. Please do not post this guide on the crag or mountain project. This guide is free and will always be free.
Please respect other climbers. The bottom gets quite muddy so please wipe off your shoes before every climb. I would suggest at least 2 crash pads. The circles are the starting hand holds. The F’s are where to start your feet.
1. Don’t Blink or you’ll miss it V0 FA Jesse Archer April 5th 2021. Start both hands on the side pull or one hand on the side pull and another on the ledge. Step up and climb straight up. Super short climb (Don’t blink)
2. Slap Chop V2 FA Steven Kell March 29th 2021 . Climb straight up. For shorter people this is a V3 probably. (The FA had a huge desperate SLAP for the top jug. Here is a video of that FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlVvWCk23uk
3. The Water Barrel VB FA Daniel Hefford April 5th 2021. Climb to the right. Big holds. Medium sized feet. More of a scramble. There is a basin where water collects after it rains.
4. Bob’s Dirty Crack ★★ V1 FA Matt Rowland May 1st 2021. Climb straight up the crack.
5. The Egg ★ V4 FA Matt Rowland March 22nd 2021. Left hand on small crimp, right hand on small ledge. Climb right to the crack and straight up. “Crux” is the start. The rock looks like a giant egg.
6. The Egg Variation ★ V1 FA Steven Kell March 22nd 2021. Follow the crack straight up.
7. Yrsa ★ V1/2 FA Steven Kell March 8th 2021. Climb straight up. Top our to the right. Steven’s first FA/ First climb he cleaned/ First Dog. Climb straight up.
8. Root of All Evil ★★ V1 FA Daniel Hefford March 8th 2021. Left hand on slopper. Right hand on jug. Climb straight up.
9. Root of All Evil (sit start)★★ V2 FA Daniel Hefford May 10th 2021. Right hand in side pull and left hand on crimp. Set up feet and hit the left hand. Climb straight up
10. Eliminates are Lame V8-V10. FA up for grabs. Right hand on crimp, Left hand on crimp. Right foot starts on small chip. Straight on small crimps. The “jug” on the right is out.
11. Stumped ★★★ V4 FA Matt Rowland March 22nd 2021. Right hand on crimp, left hand on crimp. Right foot starts on small chip. Climb straight up. The “jug” on the right is in.
12. Moss Sause VB FA Karine Boucher March 12th 2021. Climb straight up.
- Flagship ★★ V4 FA Matt Rowland May 6th 2021. Start matching hands. Traverse right then up near the bonsai. Do your best to avoid the bonsai. Top out is not tough.
- Flagstaff★ V3/4 FA Matt Rowland May 6th 2021. Start matching on the slopper. Move up to the horn and top out.
- The Bonsai ★★ V2/3 FA Daniel Hefford May 6th 2021. Left hand on crimp right hand on side pull. Climb straight up end matching on the top of the horn. The top was cleaned for another route after the FA of this one. Try your best to avoid The Bonsai.
- Snakes and Ladders ★★ V3 FA Matt Rowland May 6th 2021. Start on two crimps with good feet. Then climb straight up toping out. Pretty safe top out. If you want to make it harder go up the crack.
- Snakes and Ladders(Sit start)★★ V5/V6 FA Matt Rowland May 23rd 2021. Left hand under start of The Bonsai. Right hand in the arete on a little crimp. Move up to the start of the Snakes and Ladders. Here is video of the FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o0N07aytpE
- Footloose ★ V3 FA Matt Rowland April 26th 2021. Match on crimp. Follow crimp rail finish matching on weird bulge.
- Footloose (Sit Start) V9-11ish Still unclimbed. Start on terribly small crimps making it up to and finishing the same as Footloose
- Wingspan ★ V4 FA Matt Rowland May 1st 2021. Left hand low side pull, right hand crimp. climb straight up end matching on crimp.
- Wingspan (Sit start) ★ V5/6 FA Matt Rowland May 13th 2021. Left hand stays the same on low side pull. Right hand even lower and further right. Follow same line as Wingspan.
- Jeff’s Skid Mark (JSM) ★★ V1 FA Jeff Higgs May 6th 2021. Start matching right. Traverse left ending at the end of the horizontal crack.
- Wet Streak ★ V6/7 FA Matt Rowland August 2021. Start matching the slopper. Move to left then up. It takes a few days after rain to dry.
- Battle Scars V5 FA Matt Rowland June 2021. Located to the right of Wet Streak. Start in front of a tree then traverse left until you hit a lip. Then top out. Here is a video for location: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR2wWBvcRzo