Located at 45.417317, -80.082325 right off Avro Arrow Road. Take exit 236 on the Trans-Canada highway 400
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this is a safe spot to climb but not all circumstances can be avoided. I have rated every climb 0 – 3 stars for the quality of climb being crag specific. This crag is constantly being developed so climbs might not appear in the same spots relative to others.
PARKING: It is very clearly laid out by the township of McDougall no parking on township roads between November 15 of each year to April 15th. http://www.mcdougall.ca/p/winter-road-maintenance. Also, there is a plow turn around at the end of the road. Do not crowd this parking. If the plow cannot safely turn around your car will be ticketed and or towed. My advice is bring a truck/jeep and a pickaxe and shovel an area to park on the north side of the cliff. (There is room for 100+ cars). Carpooling is also and option. Or if your party is several cars park at the rink down the road 45.412669, -80.085717 and shuttle people. Access is and always will be an issue for climbing in Ontario. And most of these issues stem from parking. Respect the parking guidelines and climb on!
The Hangar is a 8-12.5 meter high blasted rock crag. The crag gets the sun from about 8am until 4:30pm in the summer. Some routes have manufactured holds for dry tooling and climbing. I do NOT condone the manufacturing of artificial holds on naturally occurring cliffs and the tactics used on this road cut are in no way a reflection of appropriate route development ethics.
This is Parry Sounds gym. Our closest indoor gym is an hour away. So please PLEASE be very respectful of that. We do an annual garbage pickup and work very hard to keep this place clean. Please do not post this this on the crag or mountain project. This guide is free and will always be free. If you see gear on the wall it belongs to someone who spent HOURS developing this place. Feel free to use existing anchors/gear for top rope. Leave all gear as is!!!
If you have grade feedback/ agree with the grades let me know. Donations are greatly appreciated. I will make sure the developers get the money. Daniel Hefford or Parry Sound Climbing on Facebook or comments section below.
RED ROUTES were bolted as sport, GREEN ROUTES trad/aid, BLUE ROUTES ice, YELLOW ROUTES dry tool. These routes were just bolted with these intentions. This does not mean the dry tool routes aren’t great sport routes or vise versa. The guide was written from Left to right. (east-west)
Video Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpXu3RUSyaE
1. The Sunday Times Drop M4 (Dry tool top rope) 1 bolt as redirect. (9 meters) Bolted 10/2020 Climb straight up to redirect.
2. The Spruce Goose M5 (Dry tool top rope) (9 meters) Bolted 10/2020 Climb straight up to anchors.
3. De Havilland Beaver left M3 ( Dry tool top rope) (9 meters) Bolted 11/2018) Climb straight up to anchors.
4. De Havilland Beaver right M4 (Dry tool top rope) 1 bolt as redirect (9 meters) Bolted 11/2018. Climb straight up to redirect.
5. Fast Lane 5.6 (Sport) 2 bolts. (8.5 meters). Bolted to set up the top anchors for Step up and Go. Beta: Weird start before the first bolt. Traverse to the right and pull up near the last bolt of Step Up and GO.
6. Step Up and Go ★ V2/5.3 (boulder/sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Very bouldery start then cruise up to the top. Beta: Match the 2nd hand hold and get your right hand up. Find a small left foot. Left hand in the drill hole to the left. 5.3 from here.
7. Honey Bucket 5.9 (Top rope) (8 meters) Use anchors from Step up and GO and single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up using the drill holes for hand holds at the start. In the spring there is water that runs down leaving brown organic matter on the rock. Old airplane lavatories used to be just a Honey Bucket.
8. Ice Cube WI 2 (Ice) 2 bolts (8 meters) Bolted 01/2020. The ice here forms thick enough for screws to lead up. FA Matt Naunheimer 01/20209. M1 5.8 (Trad) 4 small placements Bolted 10/2020 climb straight up then traverse to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer 10/2020 (3 people have confirmed the grade)
10. M2 5.8 (Trad) 3 small placements Bolted 10/2020 Climb straight up to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer 10/2020 (3 people have confirmed the grade)
11. M3 5.7 (Trad) 4 small placements and one really small nut. Fell on small nut and it held. Bolted 10/2020. Climb straight up then traverse to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer 10/2020
12. Aladdin’s Lamp★ 5.10b (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9 meters) Bolted (04/2019). There is a perfect lamp shaped mica intrusion at the start of the route. This is a balency climb with decent feet on small hand holds. Beta: Climb right after the first bolt. Stand on the pink quartz intrusion and then make the move to the undercling. From there traverse left. Above the third bolt there is a HUGE jug. This is the clipping hold. Mantle after the 3rd bolt. Straight up climbs at 11a. FA Daniel Hefford 04/2019
13. Look Ma No Hands ★★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. Start left of the bolt and head right. Then take a no handed no foot rest on the boulder and yell down Look Ma No Hands! From there climb straight up. FA Daniel Hefford 06/2018
14. Orange Crush 5.7 ★★★ (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Named after the middle crush in the middle of the route. Beta: Start by climbing below the drill hole. Use the drill hole to climb straight up there are 3 jugs one after the other. Just below the second bolt there is an awesome side pull to the right.
15. Wingspan 5.8/M5 ★ Sport/Dry Tool 5 bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted for sport 05/2018. There is a section where you need to extend your arms horizontally which kind of makes you look like a plane. A 5th bolt was added in 2019 to make it safer for dry tooling. This route has been enhanced for dry tooling. Beta: After the first bolt start climbing left using the side pulls/crack system. FA Daniel Hefford 05/2018
16. First Blood M7/5.8 ★ Dry tool/Sport 5 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted for dry tool 12/2021. This route is quite hard and delicate. Adjusting axes/feet while clipping will often end in a fall so be precise. Blood was drawn on the FA and the bolts are sprayed camo (Rambo reference) FA Dry tool Matt Naunheimer/Eric Csekey. It climbs at a 1 star 5.8 on rock shoes.
17. 66˚ North 5.11b (Sport) 7 bolts. (12.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. New 3rd bolt moved to a better spot 05/2022. Follow the bolt line. The crux is the 5th bolt. Clipping it can be tricky as well. FA Daniel Hefford 10/05/2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfi7PrayCtQ
Fool Manchu in the winter. Forms different every year. This year the bolts were hidden.
18. EEZEE PEEZEE 5.6 Sport 3 bolts. Bolted 07/2021. Climb straight up under the bolt line. FA Matt Naunheimer 07/2021
19. Free 4 All 5.10a Sport 3 bolts. Bolted 07/2021. FA Matt Naunheimer 07/2021 Climb under bolts using anything holds available to you. Finish to the left anchors.
20. Luna Cee 5.10c/d Bolted 07/2021 FA Matt Naunheimer Aug 7th 2021. To climb this route at the grade you must use the moon shaped hold to the right after the first bolt. You must also top out using the small crimps on the slab. For beta here is the FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFdUKb0TpOw
21. Is up to no good 5.11a/b Trad. Cleaned/top anchors installed 07/2021. Climb straight up the crack system. Only cleaned on TR. FFA up for grabs. The developer says it protects quite well.
22. Keep it Simple Silly 5.4 ★ (Sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Bolted 04/2018. Perfect entry level route to learn to sport climb. FA 04/2018 Patrick Lee
23. The Starter Pt. 2 5.6 (Top Rope) (8 meters) Bolted 05/2019. Climb straight up. The first hand hold is almost always wet.
24. Y knot 5.8 Trad. Cleaned 09/2021 Follow the crack up to the anchors just to the right. Protects well.
25. This way up 5.11b/c Sport 5 Bolts. Bolted 09/2021. Start slightly to the right on crimps. Climb straight up the bolt line. The left ledges are out for it to climb at 11b/c.
26. Ground up 5.? Trad + 1 Piton (Originally First Aid Kit) Cleaned 09/2021. This route was originally lead on aid climb from the ground up in 2015? 6 3/8″ RB holes were used to aid up to the anchors on This way up. The new trad route follows the obvious crack/arete system straight up using the same RB holes until the piton then climb over to the anchors on Guillotine.
27. Guillotine 5.? Sport 3 bolts. Bolted 09/2021. Climb straight up under the roof.
28. Unnamed Trad Cleaned 09/2021. Never been lead.
29. Scaredy cat 5.? Sport 2 bolts. Bolted 09/2021. Never been lead. Fool Manchu in the winter. Forms different every year. This year the bolts were hidden.
30. Fool Manchu WI 3 (Ice) 4 bolts (8 meters) The Ice here changes from year to year. Typically there are two ice routes here that form like Foo Manchu’s beard. The bolts can be reached from either side of the “mustache”. The ice forms fairly thin at the top. Mixed climbing might be required. In the summer it climbs as a 5.9 sport route when it’s dry. When climbing in the summer avoid the 4th bolt it’s off course.
31. Routine Maintenance M5 (Dry tool) (9.5 meters) cleaned 10/2017. There are manufactured holes drilled in for ice picks. Climb straight up.
32. Bombay Doors ★ 5.10b (Sport) 4 bolts. (12 meters) This is a great climb climb straight up. Depending on your comfort can easily combine with Leading Edge Beta: Pretty reachy move after the third bolt.
33. Leading Edge ★ 5.9 (sport) 5 bolts. (12 meters) Use a stick clip for the first bolt. Or climb left to clip into the first bolt. The crux is below the first bolt.
34. Head Game 5.9X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted 04/2022 This route is currently safe but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer 05/2022
35. Trail of tears 5.8X (Sport) 3 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted 04/2022 Bolted 04/2022 This route is currently safe but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer 05/2022
36. Unnamed 5.7X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted 04/2022 This route is currently safe but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer 05/2022
37. Gold Rush 5.8X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted 04/2022 This route is currently safe but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer 05/2022 34. Call it Moist M4 (Dry Tool) 4 bolts. Bolted 04/2017. The start is wet almost all summer unless it is an exceptionally dry summer. This is why it is a dry tool route. It is a 5.7/8 sport climb.
35. Straight up with a Twist 5.9 (Trad) 3 3/8″RB holes and 1 fixed bolt. This route is almost two routes at the start with 2 RBs to the left and 2 RBs to the right that meet in the middle to a single fixed bolt. One more RB above the bolt. Beta: Crux right after placing the second piece of protection.
36. F-35 ★ M6 Dry tool/Sport 5 bolts. Climb straight up. Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021. On the flat ledges small holes have been drilled out for placing picks. Some small holes have also been drilled out for picks above the 3rd bolt. There are two sport climb variations 1: 10b 2: 11b. Beta: 10b Mantle left below the third bolt. Very balency traverse after clipping the 4th bolt over to a crimp on the right (use the mono for stabilization). 11b Climb slightly to the right of the bolt line. Small crimps and a mono with good feet.
37. M.I.A ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. If you start left it climbs as a 5.10a. It climbs as a 5.10b as a face climb if you go straight up under the first bolt. Beta: after clipping the second bolt go really far right. There’s a really nice side pull.
38. Climbaxe ★★ 5.12b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 06/2020. Climb straight up on small crimps, side pulls and sloppers. Beta: After the second bolt use the crimps on the right. Get a solid knee bar on the dihedral and move left (crux). FA Neil Abe 08/2020
39. Wet Dream 5.9 (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 06/2020. Climb straight up bolt line. The route is often wet. FA Matt Naunheimer 06/2020
40. Caution Children at Play 5.7 (Top Rope) Bolted 07/2021 Climb straight up.
41. Side Pull 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021 Follow the bolt line. The polished rock is very slippery. The route can be climbed without using it. The on-sight is really tricky. But once you figure out the beta 10a is an accurate grade. After the 4th bolt there is a tricky mantle to the anchors. FA 05/2020 Matt Naunheimer
42. Warm up 5.10a/b (Sport) 3 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021 Climb straight up. After the second bolt there is a really small crimp which is tricky to get to. When it was bolted it was supposed to be the “easy” climb hence the name “Warm up”.
43. Dreamtime ★★ 5.9-10b (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 04/2020. This route is fantastic and sustained most of the way up. The climb is supposed to be straight up under the bolts. If you start climbing right to clip the first bolt it’s a 5.9. Straight up the bolt line on really small sharp holds 5.10b. Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt.
44. Perspective ★★ 5.7 (Trad) Bolted 04/2020. Takes pro like a champ. You can zipper this thing up. Great for learning with several no hand rests to place pro on.
45. The Nose 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Tricky start climb straight up and over “The Nose”.
46. Free fall 5.7/8 (Trad) + 1 bolt Bolted 04/2020. Start climbing straight up then head left and up over the roof. There is a bolt there if your feeling skittish. Need small nuts to protect the mantle over the roof.
47. Free Range ★ 5.6 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted 04/2020. Great for beginners to learn. Many placements with two solid feet and no hands rests Climb Straight up. Beta: (my personal placements) 5 nut 0.3-0.5 cam (first crack) 0.75 cam 60 cm runner under the bulge. Bring 2 draws.
48. Lineup ★ 5.8 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted 04/2020. Climb straight up the crack. Plenty of places to place gear with great rests.
49. Wall of Voodoo ★ 5.8 (Trad) 4 3/8″ RB holes. Holes drilled 06/2020 Climb almost straight up the face. Use the top anchors on Turbulence to lower.
50. Turbulence ★★ 5.10b/c (Sport) 6 bolts. Bolted 04/2020. Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021. This is a very well protected climb. Climb straight up. Weird side pulls, crimps jugs a difficult pinch and a mantle this route has got it all!
50b. Sucker Punch M8 Dry tool 5 bolts. (10.5 meters) Bolted 01/16/2022. FA 2022. Climb straight up on micro holds just big enough to get your ice pick and crampons in. Very sequency and precise. 5.12c sport route.
51. Runway ★★★ 5.10d/11a (Sport) 6 bolts (11 meters) Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021. The bolter would describe this climb as “a classic!” It’s probably the most sustained climb here with some really cool moves. I have had MANY suggestions on the grade of this route, between 10b and 11c so I’m sticking with 10d/11a which the bolter gave it. It was bolted to climb left after the 3rd bolt. After clipping the 3rd bolt if you traverse right the route climbs at a 10b. A 6th bolt was added 10/2019
52. Pipeline ★ 5.10c (Sport) 5 Bolts (11 meters) Bolted 07/2020. Climb straight up the pipeline. After the third bolt head left up the slabby section (10c) or climb right (5.9)
53. Step Right Up 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 03/2020. Cleaned 09/2020 There are small stairs at the base of the climb. The bolts are not in the ideal spots due to hollow rock. Climb left of the bolt line for the first 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt traverse right and climb straight up.
54. Yosemite ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 03/2020. Cleaned spotless 06/30/2021 The small crack system near the start reminded the bolter of Yosemite. Climb straight up using the crack system as much as you can. Stick a little left of the bolt line after the 2nd bolt.
55. Solar Flare 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 04/2021 Climb straight up then head right after the 4th bolt to the chains. Avoid the big ledge to the left. FA Matt Naunheimer 04/2021
56. Ice Capades WI 3 (Ice) 4 bolts. Bolted 01/2021 Climb straight up on fairly narrow but thick ice. Climbs as a 5.8 sport climb in the summer. FA Matt Naunheimer 01/2021
57. I just can’t remember 5.7 (Sport) Bolted 04/2021. Climb straight up. FA Matt Naunheimer 04/2021
58. YYZ ★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up the bolt line. Beta: After clipping the first bolt is the crux. There is a great undercling. Use it and a side pull to get your hands on the ledge above. There is a really small foot chip on your right. Using it makes the mantle a lot easier it’s just hard to spot. After the 2nd bolt it gets much easier.
59. CF-105 5.9 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up. Delicate moves to the first bolt (5.8). After the first bolt tricky sequence (5.9). After the second bolt 5.7/8 climbing.
Thin Ice and Mixed feeling. Mixed feelings forms different every year.
60. Thin Ice WI 3/ 5.8 Ice/Sport 4 bolts. Will not take screws most years and that is why the bolts are there. In the summer start the climb to the right of the first bolt. Then do a weird lunge up to the ledge to clip the first bolt. Climb straight up the bolt line after the first bolt.
61. Mixed Feelings★★ M3 WI 3/4 (Mixed/Ice) 6 bolts. Bolted 01/2020 There is a huge icicle that forms but doesn’t touch the ground. After a few climbs you’ll start to knock pieces off of it/might come off all together. Beta: The start is dry tooling to the first two bolts. Then a tricky move to get onto the icicle. From there climb the icicle to solid ice. Use the bolts, the ice here cannot be trusted. In the summer it is a 5.10a sport climb. Very well protected. Only one hard move up and over the roof.
62. The Starter ★★★ 5.6 (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) This is a great route for learning how to lead climb. The crux is below the first bolt. After the 3rd bolt it is easier to go to the right than left. If you go left from the 4th bolt to the chains it’s a 5.6+ move.
63. Just Stick It 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. The crux is at the start below the first bolt with very slippery feet. I suggest a stick clip here. 5.8 climbing after.
64. Fucking Dangerous 5.9 (Sport) 4 bolts. After the first bolt is the crux head right then stay right until slightly higher than the 2nd bolt then head left and approach the 3rd anchor from directly under it. Be aware of leading on a slab then going vertical. (A fall has potential to shatter your ankles)
65. Stairway to Heaven 5.7 (Sport) 5 bolts. (10 meters) Traverse climb on great holds. Awkward move at the top of the climb after the last bolt to the anchors. as of 2019/07/14 the route had some loose boulders so be careful.
66. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) 3 bolts. 5.9 Sport climb
67. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) Use bolts on 66 as top anchors and use lone bolt as a directional.
Great beginner stuff. Anchor off trees. By February this is very VERY fat ice.
59-62 Unnamed (9.5 meters) Bolted 01/2020. They are on the other side of the road. 59 is the East most route (closest to the highway) 62 is the West most. These are ice routes with only top anchors. Normally the ice forms thick enough for screws. The ice on 59 is typically climbable in April. Some years until May.
If your looking for other places to climb in Parry Sound click the link below for an interactive map