Located at 45.417317, -80.082325 right off Avro Arrow Road. Take exit 236 on the Trans-Canada highway 400
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this is a safe spot to climb but not all circumstances can be avoided. I have rated every climb 0 – 3 stars for the quality of climb being crag specific.
PARKING: It is very clearly laid out by the township of McDougall no parking on township roads between November 15 of each year to April 15th. http://www.mcdougall.ca/p/winter-road-maintenance- . It should also be noted there is a plow turn around at the end of the road. Do not over park here. If the plow cannot safely turn around your car will also be ticketed and or towed. My advice is bring a truck/jeep and a pickaxe and shovel an area to park on the north side of the cliff. (There is room for 100+ cars). Carpooling is also and option. Or if your party is several people park at the rink down the road 45.412669, -80.085717 and shuttle people. Access is and always will be an issue for climbing in Ontario. And most of these issues stems from parking. Respect the parking guidelines and climb on!
The Hangar is a 8-12.5 meter high blasted rock crag. The crag gets the sun from about 8am until 4:30pm in the summer. Some routes have manufactured holds for dry tooling and climbing. I do NOT condone the manufacturing of artificial holds on naturally occurring cliffs and the tactics used on this road cut are in no way a reflection of appropriate route development ethics. This is training grounds for local climbers. Feel free to use existing anchors/gear for top rope. Leave all gear as is!!!
If you have grade feedback/ agree with the grades let me know. Daniel Hefford on Facebook or comments section below.
RED ROUTES were bolted as sport, GREEN ROUTES trad/aid, BLUE ROUTES ice, YELLOW ROUTES dry tool. These routes were just bolted with these intentions. This does not mean the dry tool routes aren’t great sport routes or vise versa.
Video Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpXu3RUSyaE
1. de Havilland Beaver M4 (Dry Tool) 1 bolt as redirect. (9 meters) Bolted 11/2018. Straight up dry tool route.
2. Fast Lane 5.6 (Sport) 2 bolts. (8.5 meters). Bolted to set up the top anchors for Step up and Go. Beta: Weird start before the first bolt. Traverse to the right and pull up near the last bolt of Step Up and GO.
3. Step Up and Go ★ V2 boulder problem. 5.3 to the top. 3 bolts. (8 meters) Demanding first move on manufactured holds. Beta: Match the 2nd hand hold and get your right hand up. Find a small left foot. Left hand in the drill hole to the left. 5.3 from here.
4. Honey Bucket 5.9 (Top rope) (8 meters) Use anchors from Step up and GO and single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up using the drill holes for hand holds at the start. In the spring there is water that runs down leaving brown organic matter on the rock. Old airplane lavatories used to be just a Honey Bucket.
5. Ice Cube WI 2 (Ice) (8 meters) Bolted 01/2020. The ice here forms thick enough for screws to lead up.6. Aladdin’s Lamp ★★ 5.10b/c (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9 meters) Bolted (04/2019). There is a perfect lamp shaped mica intrusion at the start of the route. This is a balency climb with decent feet on small hand holds. 4 people say 10b 3 people say 10c. Beta: Climb right after the first bolt. Stand on the pink quartz intrusion and then make the move to the undercling. From there traverse left. Above the third bolt there is a HUGE jug. This is the clipping hold. Mantle after the 3rd bolt. Straight up climbs at 11a.
7. Look Ma No Hands ★★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. Start left of the bolt and head right. Then take a no handed no foot rest on the boulder and yell down Look Ma No Hands! From there climb straight up.
8. Orange Crush 5.7 ★★★ (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Named after the middle crush in the middle of the route. Beta: Start by climbing below the drill hole. Use the drill hole to climb straight up there are 3 jugs one after the other. Just below the second bolt there is an awesome side pull to the right.
9. Wingspan 5.8 ★ (Sport/Dry Tool) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted 05/2018. There is a section where you need to extend your arms horizontally which kind of makes you look like a plane. This route has been enhanced for dry tooling. Beta: After the first bolt start climbing left using the side pulls/crack system.
10. Unnamed 5.8 (Top Rope) (9.5 meters) Use chains on Wingspan and use single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up the crack.
11. Put in a little effort 5.11b/c ★ (Sport) 7 bolts. (12.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. Follow the bolt line on mainly manufactured holds. The crux is between the 4th and 6th bolt. Beta: Clipping the 5 bolt is tricky. Get your left foot high and your right hand in a huge pocket. Clip with your left hand cross body. Right foot in this smooth section then switch feet. Get your right foot far right and climb up on small crimps.12. Keep it Simple Silly 5.4 ★ (Sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Bolted 04/2018. Perfect entry level route to learn to sport climb.
13. The Starter Pt. 2 5.6 (Top Rope) (8 meters) Bolted 05/2019. Climb straight up. The first hand hold is always wet.
14. First Aid Kit (Aid) 6 3/8″ RB holes. (8.5 meters) Climb straight up. The route was solo bolted from the ground up with RB’s (replaceable bolts) and an aid ladder.15. Fool Manchu WI 3 (Ice) 4 bolts (8 meters) There are 2 ice routes here. It is called Fool Manchu after Foo Manchu’s beard. There are two ice pillars that form on either side of the route. The bolts can be reached from either side of the “mustache”. The ice forms fairly thin at the top. Mixed climbing might be required. In the summer it climbs as a 5.9 sport route when it’s dry. When climbing in the summer avoid the 4th bolt it’s off course.
16. Routine Maintenance M5 (Dry tool) (9.5 meters) cleaned 10/2017. There are manufactured holes drilled in for ice picks. Climb straight up.
17. Bombay Doors ★ 5.10b (Sport) 4 bolts. (12 meters) This is a great climb climb straight up. Depending on your comfort can easily combine with Leading Edge Beta: Pretty reachy move after the third bolt.
18. Leading Edge ★ 5.9 (sport) 5 bolts. (12 meters) Use a stick clip for the first bolt. Or climb left to clip into the first bolt. The crux is below the first bolt.
19. Call it Moist M4 (Dry Tool) 4 bolts. Bolted 04/2017. The start is wet almost all summer unless it is an exceptionally dry summer. This is why it is a dry tool route. It is a 5.7/8 sport climb.
20. Straight up with a Twist 5.9 (Trad) 3 3/8″RB holes and 1 fixed bolt. This route is almost two routes at the start with 2 RBs to the left and 2 RBs to the right that meet in the middle to a single fixed bolt. One more RB above the bolt. Beta: Crux right after placing the second piece of protection.
21. F-35 ★ M6 (Dry tool) 5 bolts. Climb straight up. On the flat ledges small holes have been drilled out for placing picks. Some small holes have also been drilled out for picks above the 3rd bolt. There are two sport climb variations 1: 10b 2: 11a. Because this climb is a dry tool route you have to get very creative. Unless you can use ice pick sized monos. Beta: 10b varient. Mantle left below the third bolt. Very balency traverse after clipping the 4th bolt over to a crimp on the right (use the mono for stabilization). For an 11a? variation climb straight up just to the right of the 3rd bolt. Pinch really hard with your left hand do the splits with your right foot. Get your left foot up and get a high right hand.
22. M.I.A ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. If you start left it climbs as a 5.10a. It climbs as a 5.10b as a face climb if you go straight up under the first bolt. Beta: after clipping the second bolt go really far right. There’s a really nice side pull.
23. Climbaxe ★★ 5.12b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 06/2020. Climb straight up on small crimps, side pulls and sloppers. Beta: After the second bolt use the crimps on the right. Get a solid knee bar on the dihedral and move left (crux).
24. Wet Dream 5.9 (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 06/2020. Climb straight up bolt line. The route is often wet.
25. Bouldering There are a bunch of manufactured holds all over the place. It’s an alright little warm up area.
26. Side Pull 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Follow the bolt line. The polished rock is very slippery. The route can be climbed without using it. The on-sight is really tricky. But once you figure out the beta 10a is an accurate grade. After the 4th bolt there is a tricky mantle to the anchors.
27. Warm up 5.10a/b (Sport) 3 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Climb straight up. After the second bolt there is a really small crimp which is tricky to get to. When it was bolted it was supposed to be the “easy” climb hence the name “Warm up”.
28. Dreamtime ★★ 5.8-10b (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 04/2020. This route is fantastic and sustained most of the way up. The bolter intended the climber to climb straight up under the bolts. If you start climbing right to clip the first bolt it’s a 5.9. If you start right then traverse left its a 5.8. Straight up the bolt line on really small sharp holds 5.10b. Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt.
29. Perspective ★★ 5.6 (Trad) Bolted 04/2020. Takes pro like a champ. You can zipper this thing up. Great for learning with several no hand rests to place pro on.
30. The Nose 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 05/2020. Tricky start climb straight up and over “The Nose”.
31. Free fall 5.7/8 (Trad) + 1 bolt Bolted 04/2020. Start climbing straight up then head left and up over the roof. There is a bolt there if your feeling skittish. Need small nuts to protect the mantle over the roof.
32. Free Range ★ 5.6 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted 04/2020. Great for beginners to learn. Many placements with two solid feet and no hands rests Climb Straight up. Beta: (my personal placements) 5 nut 0.3-0.5 cam (first crack) 0.75 cam 60 cm runner under the bulge. Bring 2 draws.
33. Lineup ★ 5.8 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted 04/2020. Climb straight up the crack. Plenty of places to place gear with great rests.
34. Wall of Voodoo ★ 5.8 (Trad) 4 3/8″ RB holes. Holes drilled 06/2020 Climb almost straight up the face. Use the top anchors on Turbulence to lower.
35. Turbulence ★★ 5.10b (Sport) 6 bolts. Bolted 04/2020. Climb straight up. Many small holds and a difficult pinch.
36. Runway ★★★ 5.10d/11a (Sport) 6 bolts (11 meters) Cleaned 09/2020 The bolter would describe this climb as “a classic!” It’s probably the most sustained climb here with some really cool moves. I have had MANY suggestions on the grade of this route, between 10b and 11c so I’m sticking with 10d/11a which the bolter gave it. It was bolted to climb left after the 3rd bolt. After clipping the 3rd bolt if you traverse right the route climbs at a 10b. A 6th bolt was added 10/2019
37. Pipeline ★ 5.10c (Sport) 5 Bolts (11 meters) Bolted 07/2020. Climb straight up the pipeline. After the third bolt head left up the slabby section (10c) or climb right (5.9)
38. Step Right Up 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 03/2020. Cleaned 09/2020 There are small stairs at the base of the climb. The bolts are not in the ideal spots due to hollow rock. Climb left of the bolt line for the first 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt traverse right and climb straight up.
39. Yosemite ★★ 5.9+ (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 03/2020. The small crack system near the start reminded the bolter of Yosemite. Climb straight up using the crack system as much as you can. Stick a little left of the bolt line after the 2nd bolt.40. YYZ ★ 5.8+ (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up the bolt line. Beta: After clipping the first bolt is the crux. There is a great undercling. Use it and a side pull to get your hands on the ledge above. There is a really small foot chip on your right. Using it makes the mantle a lot easier it’s just hard to spot. After the 2nd bolt it gets much easier.
41. CF-105 5.9 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up. Delicate moves to the first bolt (5.8). After the first bolt tricky sequence (5.9). After the second bolt 5.7/8 climbing.
42. Thin Ice WI 3/4(Ice) 4 bolts. Reluctant to give it a WI 4 but it is vertical thin ice. Will not take screws most years and that is why the bolts are there. 5.8 sport climb in the summer. Start the climb to the right of the first bolt. Then do a weird lunge up to the ledge to clip the first bolt. Climb straight up the bolt line after the first bolt.
43. Mixed Feelings★★ M3 WI 3/4 (Mixed/Ice) 6 bolts. Bolted 01/2020 There is a huge icicle that forms but doesn’t touch the ground. After a few climbs you’ll start to knock pieces off of it/might come off all together. Beta: The start is dry tooling to the first two bolts. Then a tricky move to get onto the icicle. From there climb the icicle to solid ice. Use the bolts, the ice here cannot be trusted. In the summer it is a 5.9/10a sport climb. Very well protected. Only one hard move up and over the roof.
44. The Starter ★★★ 5.6 (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) This is a great route for learning how to lead climb. The crux is below the first bolt. After the 3rd bolt it is easier to go to the right than left. If you go left from the 4th bolt to the chains it’s a 5.6+ move.
45. Just Stick It 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. The crux is at the start below the first bolt with very slippery feet. I suggest a stick clip here. 5.8 climbing after. 46. Fucking Dangerous 5.8+ (Sport) 4 bolts. After the first bolt is the crux head right then stay right until slightly higher than the 2nd bolt then head left and approach the 3rd anchor from directly under it. Be aware of the choss and leading on a slab.
47. Stairway to Heaven 5.7 (Sport) 5 bolts. (10 meters) Traverse climb on great holds. Awkward move at the top of the climb after the last bolt to the anchors. as of 2019/07/14 the route had some loose boulders so be careful.
48. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) 3 bolts. 5.9 Sport climb
49. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) Use bolts on 41 as top anchors and use lone bolt as a directional.
50-53 Unnamed (9.5 meters) Bolted 01/2020. They are on the other side of the road. 50 is the East most route (closest to the highway) 53 is the West most. These are ice routes with only top anchors. Normally the ice forms thick enough for screws. The ice on 50 is typically climbable in April. Some years until May.
If your looking for other places to climb in Parry Sound click the link below for an interactive map