Located at 45.417317, -80.082325 right off Avro Arrow Road. Take exit 236 on the Trans-Canada highway 400
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this is a safe spot to climb but not all circumstances can be avoided. I have rated every climb 0 – 3 stars for the quality of climb being crag specific. Nothing here would be worth jumping on a plane to climb here but a couple hours drive would be worth it.
The Hangar is a 8-12.5 meter high blasted rock crag. The crag gets the sun from about 8am until 4:30pm in the summer. Some routes have manufactured holds for dry tooling and climbing. This is training grounds for local climbers. Feel free to use existing anchors/gear for top rope. Leave all gear as is!!!
PLEASE CONTACT ME DANIEL HEFFORD ON FACEBOOK OR IN THE CONTACT SECTION IF YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR GRADES OR OTHER ROUTE INFORMATION. I AM ALSO LOOKING FOR GRADING FEEDBACK IF YOU CLIMB HERE PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR INPUT!
RED ROUTES were bolted as sport, GREEN ROUTES were bolted as trad, BLUE ROUTES were bolted as ice, YELLOW ROUTES were bolted as dry tool. Keep in mind these routes were just bolted with these intentions. This does not mean the dry tool routes aren’t great sport routes or vise versa
- Unnamed 5.6 (Sport) 2 bolts. (8.5 meters) Weird start before the first bolt. Traverse to the right and pull up near the bolt of Step Up and GO. Bolted as a beginner route.
- Step Up and Go ★ V2 boulder problem. 5.3 to the top. 3 bolts. (8 meters) Demanding first move on manufactured holds.
- Honey Bucket 5.9 (Top rope) (8 meters) Use anchors from Step up and GO and single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up using the drill holes for hand holds at the start. In the spring there is water that runs down leaving brown organic matter on the rock. Old airplane lavatories used to be just a Honey Bucket.
- Aladdin’s Lamp ★★ 5.10b/c (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9 meters) Bolted (04/2019). There is a perfect lamp shaped mica intrusion at the start of the route. This is a balency climb with decent feet on small hand holds. Climb right after the first bolt. Straight up climbs at 11a.
- Look Ma No Hands ★★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. Start left of the bolt and head right. Then take a no handed no foot rest on the boulder and yell down Look Ma No Hands! From there climb straight up.
- Orange Crush 5.7 ★★★ (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Great climb. Start a little to the left of the first bolt to 3 jugs that you can match on. Clip in to the chains from the right.
- Wingspan 5.8 ★ (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted 05/2018. There is a section where you need to extend your arms horizontally which kind of makes you look like a plane.
- Unnamed 5.8 (Top Rope) (9.5 meters) Use chains on Wingspan and use single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up the crack.
- Put in a little H’effort 5.11a ★ (Sport) 7 bolts. (12.5 meters) Bolted 06/2018. Follow the bolt line on mainly manufactured holds. The crux is between the 4th and 6th bolt.
- 10A Keep it Simple Silly 5.4 ★ (Sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Bolted 04/2018. Perfect entry level route. The two bolts at the bottom to the right are there for teaching purposes.
10B The Starter Pt. 2 5.6 (Top Rope) (8 meters) Bolted 05/2019. Climb straight up. The first hand hold is always wet.
- Unnamed (Aid) 6 RB holes. (8.5 meters) Climb straight up. The route was bolted from the ground up with RB’s (replaceable bolts) and an aid ladder.
- Fool Manchu (Ice climb/sport) There are 3 routes here. It is called Fool Manchu after Foo Manchu’s beard. In the winter there are two ice pillars that form on either side of the route. The bolts can be reached from either side of the “mustache”. In the summer it climbs at a 5.9 sport route when it’s dry. Just follow the bolt line.
- Routine Maintenance (Dry tool route) 5.9 as a top rope. (9.5 meters) I’m not sure when it was bolted but it was cleaned 10/2017. There are manufactured holes drilled in for ice picks. If the bolter wants to call it something else please send me a message.
- Bombay Doors ★ 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. (12 meters) This is a great climb that feels a little slabby at the start.
- Leading Edge ★ 5.9 (sport) 5 bolts. (12 meters) Crux below the first bolt. There are two tough moves. Then it climbs at a 5.7
- Call it Moist ★★ 5.7 (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted 04/2017. Start to the right of the first bolt. I would suggest against climbing it as a dry tool route. The start is often wet early in the year. (hence the name) A huge boulder was removed 05/2019 changing the way it climbs in the photo above. It is still a 5.7.
- Straight up with a Twist 5.9 (Trad) 3 RB holes and 1 fixed anchor. This route is almost two routes at the start with 2 RBs to the left and 2 RBs to the right that meet in the middle to a single fixed anchor. One more RB above the anchor.
- Danger Noodle ★ (Dry tool) 5 bolts. This is a 5.10b sport climb. Mantle below the third bolt. Very balency traverse after clipping the 4th bolt over to a crimp on the right. For an 11a? variation. Climb straight up just to the right of the 3rd bolt. You have to do the splits (almost) but it goes.
- M.I.A ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. If you start left it climbs as a 5.10a. It climbs as a 5.10b as a face climb if you go straight up under the first bolt.
- Bouldering I drilled in a bunch of small holds all over the place for a small training area. (more for personal practice using a hammer drill than anything). It’s an alright little warm up area.
- Runway ★★★ 5.10d/11a (Sport) 6 bolts (11 meters) The bolter would describe this climb as “a classic!” It’s probably the most sustained climb here with some really cool moves. I have had a few suggestions on the grade of this route, between 10b and 11c so I’m sticking going with 10d/11a which the bolter gave it. It was bolted to climb left after the 3rd bolt. After clipping the 3rd bolt if you traverse right the route climbs at a 10b.
- Unnamed ★ 5.8+ (Sport) 4 bolts. Head straight up to the first bolt then go a little left of the first bolt to the crux. After the 2nd bolt is clipped it climbs at a 5.7/5.8 to the top two chains.
- Unnamed 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up. Similar sized holds the whole way up.
- Unnamed 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts. The first bolt can be tricky to get to. Start about 5-6 feet to the right of the first bolt then traverse to the left until you clip the first bolt. From there climb straight up.
- Unnamed (Ice climb) 3 bolts 1 piton. This is a 5.9 sport climb. Up to you if you want to use the piton just to the left of the second bolt.
- The Starter ★★★ 5.6 (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) This is a great route for learning how to lead climb. The crux is below the first bolt. After the 3rd bolt it is easier to go to the right than left. If you go left from the 4th bolt to the chains it’s a 5.7.
- Unnamed 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. The crux is at the start below the first bolt.
- Fucking Dangerous 5.8+ (Sport) 4 bolts. After the first bolt is the crux head right then stay right until slightly higher than the 2nd bolt then head left and approach the 3rd anchor from directly under it. Be aware of the choss!!!
- Stairway to Heaven 5.7 (Sport) 5 bolts. (10 meters) Traverse climb on great holds. Awkward move at the top of the climb after the last bolt to the anchors. AS OF 2019/07/14 THIS ROUTE HAS TWO WIDOW MAKERS THEY ARE SLIGHTLY OFF ROUTE. I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE WITH A 3 FOOT LONG CROW BAR.
- Unnamed 5.9 (Ice climb) 3 bolts. I have never climbed this route as an Ice route; however it was bolted with that in mind. This is a fantastic sport route. Climbs at a 5.9. Crux between bolt 2 and 3.
- Unnamed ? (Ice climb) I have never climbed this route as an Ice route; however it was bolted with that in mind. I never climbed this as a sport route. Set up top anchors on 30 and use the single bolt as a directional. Would love feedback!
32-35 Unnamed (9.5 meters) Are on the other side of the road. 32 is the leftmost route (closest to the highway) 35 the right most. These are ice routes with only top anchors. Normally the ice forms thick enough for screws.
If your looking for other places to climb in Parry Sound click the link below for an interactive map