Located at 45.385470, -80.084845. Park at George Hunt Memorial Boat Ramp if your a McDougall Resident or you’ll risk a parking ticket. From here you can paddle around the island or you can paddle across to a cairn and hike 900 meters.
Another option is to park at Nobel Beach and paddle over.
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this a safe spot to climb, but not all circumstances can be avoided.
Pirates Cove is a 8.5-15.5 meter high phenomenal climbing spot. Climbing grades ranging from 5.6-5.11c and bouldering up to V7/8. Not to mention a 100 meter sandy beach and gorgeous sunset. Camping is prohibited on the beach but not to far away there are crown land sites. The cliff does not get sunlight until 2:30 pm making it perfect for hot summer climbing.
Approach: There are two approaches to Pirates Cove. Either paddle 1.9 km around the island to the beach then walk up to the cliff. Or paddle 200 meters across Barry’s Channel to a rock cairn.
Top: The entrance to the trail Bottom: White blazers marking the trail.
After you park your boat there is a 900 meter trail that is marked with white blazers and rock cairns that will lead you to the cliff on the other side. From the top of the cliff you can either rappel to the bottom (There are two hangers to repel off of) or hike around the cliff to the bottom.
This crag was completely overgrown/unclimbable and has now been restored. The route names were lost in the transition. The original bolter either was a huge fan of the bee gees or the beach boys. So when it felt suitable I named routes after Bee gee songs (50/50 right?) If you know the original route names I will gladly change this topo. The top anchors are glue ins so please set up your own top rope anchors. DO NOT GET LOWERED THROUGH GLUE INS PLEASE RAP DOWN. Glue-ins are very difficult to replace. I suggest 240 cm slings on most of the routes to prevent rope drag.
Aerial view of the crag.
1. Sweaty Nickel 5.6 (Sport) 4 bolts (8.5 meters) Named because of a nickel that was left at the base of the route by some climber before I climbed here. Use the rock on the ground to get on the cliff. After the first two bolts climb left. The last hold to clip the anchors is on the left. Clip the carabiners at the top and feel free to use them as top rope anchors. Let me know when they need to be replaced.
2. Stayin Alive 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts (10 meters) Climb straight up but try and climb slightly right of the bolts. If there seems like your clipping on a small hold just climb slightly higher. New top anchors bolted 08/2019. Clip the carabiners at the top and feel free to use them as top rope anchors. Let me know when they need to be replaced.
3. Eat the Brown Ones Last 5.10b (Sport) 6 bolts (11 meters) Named because of the brown lichen. There is a loose rock marked with an X at the start. Use at your own risk. Clip the first bolt then dyno up to a crimp. (This is the crux) Traverse right. After clipping the third bolt continue slightly right then climb straight up. You may think this route is harder than 10b then you are most likely using the wrong holds. There are a few blank sections just search for the crimps, they are positive and they are there. If top roping bring a 240 cm sling.
4. Eat the Brown Ones Last Variant 5.11 b/c (Sport) 4 bolts (11 meters) Climb straight up under the anchors of EtBOL. I would highly suggest stick clipping the first bolt as your clipping hold is very small and exposed unless your at least 6 ft tall. The crux is off the first bolt. It is a little run out to the second bolt but the climbing is easier after the dyno (5.8 to second bolt). If top roping bring a 240 cm sling.
5. How can you mend a broken heart. 5.8 (Trad) (11 meters) A small dyno at the start for those 5 ft and shorter to an amazing jug. Really good placements just slightly runout between pro on horizontal cracks. If top roping bring a 240 cm sling.
6. Me lichen, Me lichen 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts (11 meters) (hours of cleaning and there is still tons of lichen on the route) I suggest starting right to clip the bolt then downclimb and start to the left of the bolt. Or stick clip the first bolt. Beta: Start matching your hands. Right hand up clip the first bolt with your left then traverse left (either dyno left or use the side pull) Then climb straight up. After the 2nd bolt climb straight up clip the third. If you avoid the HUGE side pull to the left and have to use the sloppers straight above the 3rd bolt to the ledge it’s 5.10c/d. New top anchors bolted 08/2019. Two carabiners are on the rap rings. Use those to lower/top rope. Let me know if they need to be replaced.
7. Unnamed 5.10+ ??? (Mixed) (11 meters) Highish first bolt then use pro the rest of the way. Never climbed it would love input on grade. And name the route if you’d like.
8. Walk the Plank 5.1 (Sport). Can be done left to right to get to the 2nd tier climbs or right to left to exit the 2nd tier.
9. New York Mining Disaster 1941 5.6 (Trad) (15.5 meters from very bottom or 11.5 meters from the same level as the other climbs) The bottom section is 5.2 climbing but no pro. This is a slightly slabby route so I would suggest you don’t top rope it. It protects very well with smallish stuff (nuts work great here). I’d double up on cams on the horizontal crack.
10. Straight Right Up 5.7 (Trad) Follow the same start as NYMD then traverse right along a thinish crack. Climb straight up to anchors. Cleaned and top anchors bolted 09/2020.
11. ???? 5.8 (Mixed) 1 bolt. Climb straight up just left of the roof. Once on the top of the roof clip the bolt and climb straight up. Small ish feet and harder for shorter climbers. Cleaned and top anchors bolted 09/2020.
12. Too Much Heaven Pitch 1: 5.10d (Sport) 6 bolts. Climb straight up an open book then up and over a roof. Crux is getting over the roof. After climbing there is a large platform where three routes have been bolted.
13. Pitch 2 Right: 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts. Crux after clipping the first bolt.
14. Pitch 2 Middle: 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Tricky crux at the bottom. Climb straight up.
15. Pitch 2 Right: 5.2 (Sport) 4 bolts. This is basically a scramble to a single bolt at the top.
B1. The information on this boulder is lost. Any routes you climb send them this way.
B2. The information on this boulder is lost. Any routes you climb send them this way.
B3. The Dragon V2. Start on the horizontal traverse to the mouth top out on the nose.
B4. 1. Eight Scared V3 start with the higher pinches climb straight up and top out. Last cleaned 06/2021
2. Arachnophobia V4 FA Terry Christenson 06/1997. Traverse the top on slopers. Last cleaned 06/2021
B4. Traverse left or right on crimp rail.
B5. There is a ton of bouldering potential here. It needs some serious cleaning however.
Ontario Adventurer 