Located at 45.417317, -80.082325 right off Avro Arrow Road. Take exit 236 on the Trans-Canada highway 400
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself by using the information in this guide. To the best of my ability I have tried to make this is a safe spot to climb but not all circumstances can be avoided. I have rated every climb 0 – 3 stars for the quality of climb being crag specific. This crag is constantly being developed so climbs might not appear in the same spots relative to others.
PARKING: The Township of McDougall states NO PARKING on township roads between November 15 to April 15th. http://www.mcdougall.ca/p/winter-road-maintenance. There is a plow turn around at the end of the road. Do not crowd this parking. If the plow cannot safely turn around your car will be ticketed and or towed. My advice is bring a truck/jeep and a pickaxe and shovel an area to park on the north side of the cliff. (There is room for 100+ cars). Carpooling is also and option. Or if your party is several cars park at the rink down the road 45.412669, -80.085717 and shuttle people. Please respect the parking guidelines and climb on!
The Hangar is a 8-12.5 meter high blasted rock crag. The crag gets the sun from about 8am until 4:30pm in the summer. Some routes have manufactured holds for dry tooling and climbing. I do NOT condone the manufacturing of artificial holds on naturally occurring cliffs and the tactics used on this road cut are in no way a reflection of appropriate route development ethics.
This is Parry Sound’s gym. Our closest indoor gym is an hour away. So please PLEASE be very respectful of that. We do an annual garbage pickup and work very hard to keep this place clean. Please do not post this this on the crag or mountain project. This guide is free and will always be free. If you see gear on the wall it belongs to someone who spent HOURS developing this place. Feel free to use existing anchors/gear for top rope. Leave all gear as is!!!
If you have grade feedback/ agree with the grades let me know. Donations are greatly appreciated. Daniel.hefford01@gmail.com. I will make sure the developers get the money. Feel free to send me an e-mail if you have any questions.
RED ROUTES were bolted as sport, GREEN ROUTES trad/aid, BLUE ROUTES ice, YELLOW ROUTES dry tool. These routes were just bolted with these intentions. This does not mean the dry tool routes aren’t great sport routes or vise versa. The guide was written from Left to right. (east-west)
Old Video Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpXu3RUSyaE
1. The Sunday Times Drop M4 (Dry tool top rope) 1 bolt as redirect. (9 meters) Bolted Oct-2020. Climb straight up to redirect. FA Unknown (Toronto Peeps Oct-2020)
2. The Spruce Goose M5 (Dry tool top rope) (9 meters) Bolted Oct-2020. Climb straight up to anchors. FA Unknown (Toronto Peeps Oct-2020)
3. De Havilland Beaver left M3 ( Dry tool top rope) (9 meters) Bolted Nov-2018. Climb straight up to anchors. FA Unknown (Toronto peeps Nov-2018)
4. De Havilland Beaver right M4 (Dry tool top rope) 1 bolt as redirect (9 meters) Bolted Nov-2018. Climb straight up to redirect. FA Unknown (Toronto peeps Nov-2018)
5. Fast Lane 5.6 (Sport) 2 bolts. (8.5 meters). Bolted to set up the top anchors for Step up and Go. Beta: Weird start before the first bolt. Traverse to the right and pull up near the last bolt of Step Up and GO. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2012
6. Step Up and Go ★ V2/5.3 (boulder/sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Very bouldery start then cruise up to the top. Beta: Match the 2nd hand hold and get your right hand up. Find a small left foot. Left hand in the drill hole to the left. 5.3 from here. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2012
7. Honey Bucket 5.9 (Top rope) (8 meters) Use anchors from Step up and GO and single bolt as a directional. Climb straight up using the drill holes for hand holds at the start. In the spring there is water that runs down leaving brown organic matter on the rock. Old airplane lavatories used to be just a Honey Bucket. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2012
8. Ice Cube WI 2 (Ice) 2 bolts (8 meters) Bolted Jan-2020. The ice here forms thick enough for screws to lead up. FA Matt Naunheimer Jan-2020
9. M1 5.8 (Sport) Originally a 5.8 trad route with 4 small placements. Anchors bolted Oct-2020. Climb straight up then traverse to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer Oct-2020. Bolted as sport Apr-2024 FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2024
10. M2 5.8 (Trad) 3 small placements. Anchors bolted Oct-2020 Climb straight up to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer Oct-2020
11. M3 5.7 (Trad) 1 bolt + 4 small placements and one really small nut. Fell on small nut and it held. Bolted Oct-2020. Climb straight up then traverse to anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer Oct-2020
12. Aladdin’s Lamp★ 5.10b (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9 meters) Bolted Apr-2019. There is a perfect lamp shaped mica intrusion at the start of the route. This is a balency climb with decent feet on small hand holds. There is a bolt at the top to set up TR. Beta: Above the third bolt there is a HUGE jug. This is the clipping hold. Straight up climbs at 11a. FA Daniel Hefford Apr-2019
13. Look Ma No Hands ★★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted June-2018. Start left of the bolt and head right. Then take a no handed no foot rest on the boulder and yell down Look Ma No Hands! From there climb straight up. FA Daniel Hefford June-2018
14. Orange Crush 5.7 ★★★ (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) Named after the middle crush in the middle of the route. Beta: Start by climbing below the drill hole. Use the drill hole to climb straight up there are 3 jugs one after the other. Just below the second bolt there is an awesome side pull to the right. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2015. This route has also been climbed with only trad gear.
15. Wingspan 5.8/M5 ★ Sport/Dry Tool 5 bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted for sport May-2018. There is a section where you need to extend your arms horizontally which kind of makes you look like a plane. A 5th bolt was added in 2019 to make it safer for dry tooling. This route has been enhanced for dry tooling. Beta: After the first bolt start climbing left using the side pulls/crack system. FA Daniel Hefford May-2018
16. First Blood M7/5.8 ★ Dry tool/Sport 5 Bolts. (9.5 meters) Bolted for dry tool Dec-2021. This route is quite hard and delicate. Adjusting axes/feet while clipping will often end in a fall so be precise. Blood was drawn on the FA and the bolts are sprayed camo (Rambo reference) FA Dry tool Matt Naunheimer/Eric Csekey. It climbs at a 1 star 5.8 on rock shoes.
17. 66˚ North 5.11b (Sport) 7 bolts. (12.5 meters) Bolted June-2018. New 3rd bolt moved to a better spot May-2022. Follow the bolt line. The crux is around the 5th bolt. Clipping it can be tricky as well. FA Daniel Hefford May-2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfi7PrayCtQ
18. Unknown 5.? 2 bolts Bolted Apr-2025 FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2025
19. EEZEE PEEZEE 5.6 Sport 3 bolts. Bolted July-2021. Climb straight up under the bolt line. FA Matt Naunheimer July-2021
20. Free 4 All 5.10a Sport 3 bolts. Bolted July-2021. Climb under bolts using anything holds available to you. Finish to the left anchors. FA Matt Naunheimer July-2021
21. Luna Cee 5.10c/d Sport 2 bolts. Bolted July-2021. To climb this route at the grade you must use the moon shaped hold to the right after the first bolt. You must also top out using the small crimps on the slab. FA Aug 7th 2021 Matt Naunheimer. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFdUKb0TpOw
22. Is up to no good 5.11a/b Trad. Cleaned/top anchors installed July-2021. Climb straight up the crack system. Only cleaned on TR. FA up for grabs. The developer says it protects quite well.
23. Keep it Simple Silly 5.4 ★ (Sport) 3 bolts. (8 meters) Bolted Apr- 2018. Perfect entry level route to learn to sport climb. FA Apr-2018 Patrick Lee
24. The Starter Pt. 2 5.6 (Top Rope) (8 meters) Bolted May-2019. Climb straight up. The first hand hold is almost always wet.
25. Y knot 5.8 Trad. Cleaned Sept-2021 Follow the crack up to the anchors just to the right. Protects well. FA Matt Naunheimer Sept-2021
26. This way up 5.11b/c Sport 5 Bolts. Bolted Sept-2021. Start slightly to the right on crimps. Climb straight up the bolt line. The left ledges are out for it to climb at 11b/c. FA Matt Naunheimer 2023
27. Ground up 5.? Trad + 1 Piton (Originally First Aid Kit) Cleaned Sept-2021. This route was originally lead on aid climb from the ground up in 2015. 6 3/8″ RB holes were used to aid up to the anchors on This way up. The new trad route follows the obvious crack/arete system straight up using the same RB holes until the piton then climb over to the anchors on Guillotine. FA Matt Naunheimer Sept-2021
28. Guillotine 5.10c Sport 3 bolts. Bolted Sept-2021. Climb straight up under the roof. FA Matt Naunheimer Sept-2021
29. Scaredy cat 5.? Sport 2 bolts. Bolted Sept-2021. FA Matt Naunheimer 2022
30. Unnamed Trad Cleaned Sept-2021. Never been lead.
31. Fool Manchu WI 3 (Ice) 4 bolts (8 meters) The Ice here changes from year to year. Typically there are two ice routes here that form like Foo Manchu’s beard. The bolts can be reached from either side of the “mustache”. The ice forms fairly thin at the top. Mixed climbing might be required. In the summer it climbs as a 5.9 sport route when it’s dry. When climbing in the summer avoid the 4th bolt it’s off course. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2015
32. Routine Maintenance M5 (Dry tool) (9.5 meters) cleaned Oct-2017. There are manufactured holes drilled in for ice picks. Climb straight up.
33. Bombay Doors ★ 5.10b (Sport) 4 bolts. (12 meters) Climb straight up. Depending on your comfort can easily combine with Leading Edge Beta: Pretty reachy move after the third bolt. The first route bolted at The Hangar FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2013
34. Leading Edge ★ 5.9 (sport) 5 bolts. (12 meters) Use a stick clip for the first bolt. Or climb left to clip into the first bolt. The crux is below the first bolt. FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2013
35. Head Game 5.9X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted Apr-2022 This route is currently safe but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
36. Unnamed (Top Rope) Bolted Apr-2022.
37. Unnamed (Sport) 4 bolts Bolted Apr-2022. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
38. Trail of tears 5.8X (Sport) 3 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted Apr-2022 This route was safe in 2022 but the rock is suspect. Lead with caution. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
39. Unnamed (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted Apr-2022. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
40. Unnamed 5.7X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted Apr-2022. This route was safe in 2022 but the rock is suspect. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
41. Unnamed (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted Apr-2022 FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
42. Gold Rush 5.8X (Sport) 4 bolts. (9 meters) Bolted Apr-2022. This route was safe in 2022 but the rock is suspect. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
43. Unnamed (Sport) 3 bolts Bolted Apr-2022. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2022
44. Sun Spot ★ 5.9 (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted Apr-2024. The only route not shown in a photo to the left of Unnamed 44. This is a pretty fun climb at 5.9. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2024
45. Unnamed (Sport) 5 Bolts. Bolted Apr-2024 Climb straight up and use the bolts on Call it Moist. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2024
46. Call it Moist M4 (Dry Tool) 4 bolts. Bolted Apr-2017. The start is wet almost all summer unless it is an exceptionally dry summer. This is why it is a dry tool route. It is a 5.7/8 sport climb. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2017.
47. Unnamed (Sport) 5 Bolts. Bolted Apr-2024. FA Matt Naunheimer May-2024
48. Straight up with a Twist 5.9 (Trad) 3 3/8″RB holes and 1 fixed bolt. Bolted 2016. This route is almost two routes at the start with 2 RBs to the left and 2 RBs to the right that meet in the middle to a single fixed bolt. One more RB above the bolt. Beta: Crux right after placing the second piece of protection. FA Matt Naunheimer 2016
49. F-35 ★ M6 Dry tool/Sport 5 bolts. Bolted 2016 Climb straight up. Cleaned spotless 2021-06-30. On the flat ledges small holes have been drilled out for placing picks. Some small holes have also been drilled out for picks above the 3rd bolt. FA Matt Naunheimer 2016
There are two sport climb variations 1: 10b 2: 11b. Beta: 10b Mantle left below the third bolt. Very balency traverse after clipping the 4th bolt over to a crimp on the right (use the mono for stabilization). 11b Climb slightly to the right of the bolt line. Small crimps and a mono with good feet.
50. M.I.A ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 2016. If you start left it climbs as a 5.10a. It climbs as a 5.10b as a face climb if you go straight up under the first bolt. Beta: after clipping the second bolt go really far right. There’s a really nice side pull. There are bolts at the top to set up a TR. FA Matt Naunheimer 2016
51. Climbaxe ★★ 5.12b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted June-2020. Climb straight up on small crimps, side pulls and sloppers. Beta: After the second bolt use the crimps on the right. Get a solid knee bar on the dihedral and move left (crux). FA Neil Abe Aug-2020
52. Wet Dream 5.9 (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted June-2020. Climb straight up bolt line. The route is often wet. FA Matt Naunheimer June-2020
53. Gym Climb 5.7 (Top Rope) Bolted May-2024. Climb straight up on manufactured holds. I made this route to have an easy route to teach people on for group climb. There is a bolt at the top to easily set up a top rope
54. Unnamed 5.? (Top Rope) Bolted May-2024. There is a bolt at the top to easily set up a top rope.
55. Caution Children at Play 5.7 (Top Rope) Bolted July-2021 Climb straight up. There is a bolt at the top to easily set up a top rope.
56. Side Pull 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted May-2020 Follow the bolt line. The polished rock is very slippery. The route can be climbed without using it. The on-sight is really tricky. But once you figure out the beta 10a is an accurate grade. After the 4th bolt there is a tricky mantle to the anchors. FA May-2020 Matt Naunheimer
57. Warm up 5.10a/b (Sport) 3 bolts. Bolted May-2020. Climb straight up. After the second bolt there is a really small crimp which is tricky to get to. When it was bolted it was supposed to be the “easy” climb hence the name “Warm up”. FA May-2020 Matt Naunheimer
58. Dreamtime ★★ 5.9-10b (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted Apr-2020. This route is fantastic and sustained most of the way up. The climb is supposed to be straight up under the bolts. If you start climbing right to clip the first bolt it’s a 5.9. Straight up the bolt line on really small sharp holds 5.10b. Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt. FA Apr-2020 Matt Naunheimer
59. Perspective ★★ 5.7 (Trad) Bolted Apr-2020. Takes pro like a champ. You can zipper this thing up. Great for learning with several no hand rests to place pro on. FA Apr-2020 Matt Naunheimer
60. The Nose 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. Bolted May-2020. Tricky start climb straight up and over “The Nose”. May-2020 Matt Naunheimer
61. Free fall 5.7/8 (Trad) + 1 bolt Bolted Apr-2020. Start climbing straight up then head left and up over the roof. There is a bolt there if your feeling skittish. Need small nuts to protect the mantle over the roof. May-2020 Matt Naunheimer
62. Free Range ★ 5.6 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted Apr-2020. Great for beginners to learn. Many placements with two solid feet and no hands rests Climb Straight up. Beta: (my personal placements) 5 nut 0.3-0.5 cam (first crack) 0.75 cam 60 cm runner under the bulge. Bring 2 draws. Apr-2020 Matt Naunheimer
63. Lineup ★ 5.8 (Trad) + 1 bolt. Bolted Apr-2020. Climb straight up the crack. Plenty of places to place gear with great rests. May-2020 Matt Naunheimer
64. Wall of Voodoo ★ 5.8 (Trad) 4 3/8″ RB holes. Holes drilled June-2020 Climb almost straight up the face. Use the top anchors on Turbulence to lower. June-2020 Matt Naunheimer
65. Turbulence ★★ 5.10b/c (Sport) 6 bolts. Bolted Apr-2020. This is a very well protected climb. Climb straight up. Weird side pulls, crimps, jugs, a difficult pinch and a mantle this route has got it all! There is also a mixed variation on the left use gear then clip bolts below the crux. Apr-2020 Matt Naunheimer
66. Sucker Punch M8 Dry tool 5 bolts. (10.5 meters) Bolted Jan-2022. FA Matt Naunheimer/ Eric Csekey 2022. Climb straight up on micro holds just big enough to get your ice pick and crampons in. Very sequency and precise. 5.12c sport route. No one has freed this manufactured route with rock shoes.
67. Runway ★★★ 5.10d/11a (Sport) 6 bolts (11 meters) Bolted 2016 The bolter would describe this climb as “a classic!” It’s probably the most sustained climb here with some really cool moves. I have had MANY suggestions on the grade of this route, between 10b and 11c so I’m sticking with 10d/11a which the bolter gave it. It was bolted to climb left after the 3rd bolt. After clipping the 3rd bolt if you traverse right the route climbs at a 10b. A 6th bolt was added Oct-2019 FA Matt Naunheimer 2016
68. Pipeline ★ 5.10c (Sport) 5 Bolts (11 meters) Bolted June-2020. Climb straight up the pipeline. After the third bolt head left up the slabby section (10c) or climb right (5.9). The route has lost some rock over the years. There is a trad variation of this route. FA June-2020 Female climber
69. Step Right Up 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted Mar-2020. There are small stairs at the base of the climb. The bolts are not in the ideal spots due to hollow rock. Climb left of the bolt line for the first 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt traverse right and climb straight up. FA Matt Rowland 2020
70. Yosemite ★★ 5.10a (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted Mar-2020. The small crack system near the start reminded the bolter of Yosemite. Climb straight up using the crack system as much as you can. Stick a little left of the bolt line after the 2nd bolt. Has been lead with trad gear. FA Matt Naunheimer 2020
71. Unkonwn (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted 2024 FA Matt Naunheimer 2024
72. Unkonwn (Sport) 6 bolts. Bolted 2024 FA Matt Naunheimer 2024
73. Solar Flare 5.10b (Sport) 5 bolts. Bolted Apr-2021 Climb straight up then head right after the 4th bolt to the chains. Avoid the big ledge to the left. FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2021
74. Ice Capades WI 3 (Ice) 4 bolts. Bolted Jan-2021 Climb straight up on fairly narrow but thick ice. Climbs as a 5.8 sport climb in the summer. FA Matt Naunheimer Jan-2021
75. I just can’t remember 5.7 (Sport) Bolted Apr-2021. Climb straight up. FA Matt Naunheimer Apr-2021
76. YYZ ★ 5.8 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up the bolt line. Beta: After clipping the first bolt is the crux. There is a great undercling. Use it and a side pull to get your hands on the ledge above. There is a really small foot chip on your right. Using it makes the mantle a lot easier it’s just hard to spot. After the 2nd bolt it gets much easier. FA Unknown ~2015
77. CF-105 5.9 (Sport) 4 bolts. Climb straight up. Delicate moves to the first bolt (5.8). After the first bolt tricky sequence (5.9). After the second bolt 5.7/8 climbing.
Thin Ice and Mixed feeling. Mixed feelings forms different every year. FA Unknown ~2015
78. Thin Ice WI 3/ 5.8 Ice/Sport 4 bolts. Will not take screws most years and that is why the bolts are there. In the summer start the climb to the right of the first bolt. Then do a weird lunge up to the ledge to clip the first bolt. Climb straight up the bolt line after the first bolt.
79. Mixed Feelings★★ M3 WI 3/4 (Mixed/Ice) 6 bolts. Bolted Jan-2020 There is a huge icicle that forms but doesn’t touch the ground. After a few climbs you’ll start to knock pieces off of it/might come off all together. Beta: The start is dry tooling to the first two bolts. Then a tricky move to get onto the icicle. From there climb the icicle to solid ice. Use the bolts, the ice here cannot be trusted. In the summer it is a 5.10a sport climb. Very well protected. Only one hard move up and over the roof. FA Matt Naunheimer Jan-2020
80. The Starter ★★★ 5.6 (Sport) 4 bolts. (9.5 meters) This is a great route for learning how to lead climb. The crux is below the first bolt. After the 3rd bolt it is easier to go to the right than left. If you go left from the 4th bolt to the chains it’s a 5.6+ move. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2013
81. Just Stick It 5.10a (Sport) 4 bolts. The crux is at the start below the first bolt with very slippery feet. I suggest a stick clip here. 5.8 climbing after. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2013
82. Fucking Dangerous 5.9 (Sport) 4 bolts. After the first bolt is the crux, climb right and stay right until slightly higher than the 2nd bolt then climb left and approach the 3rd anchor from directly under it. Be aware of leading on a slab then going vertical. (A fall has potential to shatter your ankles) FA Unknown ~2014
83. Stairway to Heaven 5.7 (Sport) 5 bolts. (10 meters) Traverse climb on great holds. Awkward move at the top of the climb after the last bolt to the anchors. On Jul-2019 found some loose boulders. FA Matt Naunheimer ~2013
84. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) 3 bolts. 5.9 Sport climb
85. Unnamed WI ? (Ice) Use bolts on 66 as top anchors and use lone bolt as a directional.
Great beginner stuff. Anchor off trees. By February this is very VERY fat ice.
86-89 Unnamed (9.5 meters) Bolted Jan-2020. They are on the other side of the road. 86 is the East most route (closest to the highway) 89 is the West most. These are ice routes with only top anchors. Normally the ice forms thick enough for screws. The ice on 86 is typically climbable in April. Some years until May. Pretty much every variation of these routes has been climbed.
Hope you enjoyed this guide. If you have any feedback please feel free to send me a message @ daniel.hefford01@gmail.com
If you’d like to donate to the developers in the area e-transfers can be sent to daniel.hefford01@gmail.com
If your looking for other places to climb in Parry Sound click the link below for an interactive map
https://ontarioadventurer.ca/climbing-topography/
Ontario Adventurer 